Western Massachusetts

I used to love the smell of bakeries when I was growing up. The air inside them was warm, yeasty, comfortable and sweet. In fact, I loved everything about bakeries, from the loaves of bread in wire baskets against the wall, the brightly lit pastry cases, the white porcelain slicing machines, the white waxed paper bags that kept the crust crisp without the soft insides from drying.  

Bakeries went into a decline in the late 1900’s, with supermarkets providing soft processed loaves in plastic and big puffy over-sweetened pastries. Locally, there were always one or two bakeries but even there, for the most part, the breads lacked character and the cakes tasted like Betty Crocker mixes.  

The local bakery has made something of a comeback in the last 20 years. In fact, you can get bread baked all or in part from wheat that is locally grown. Most local bakeries serve morning coffees and afternoon lunch so you aren’t limited to just what you can take home. And since our region in Western Massachusetts is known for its creativity, you’ll find way more than just sourdough, whole wheat loaves, croissants and some baguettes.

Henion Bakery, a venerable bakery in Amherst, has been sustaining lovers of real bread and real pastries and cakes for more than 20 years. They’ve been our go-to place for family cakes for a long time now. A small shop with too many good things to try, Henion has a few tables for a morning or late afternoon cup of coffee and one of their pastries. Pick up a baguette for your dinner or a few Florentines for dessert while you’re there.  

In Northampton, there are a number of bakeries to sample. Hungry Ghost Bread, on 62 State Street, with its wood-fired oven, specialty breads, and local wheat, has been nominated for a James Beard award in the Pastry Chef Category in 2011 and again in 2014. The oven gives the bread a serious crust while the inside stays soft and chewy. The bakers turn out a couple of dozen different loaves on a rotating schedule. They have pizzas and, for the all-important strolling nibble, great pretzels. 

But don’t stop there. A hidden gem in the bakery department is Woodstar Café at 60 Masonic Street. Housed in an old fire station, at first it seems more of place to sit down with a latte and a morning pastry or a lunchtime sandwich. But they bake their own breads there, for their sandwiches as well as to-go loaves, and offer pastries by the piece or slice. I try to have lunch there on Fridays, so I can grab a challah, which rarely lasts in my house through to Saturday night, and include a slice of one of their fruit tarts with my sandwich. 

Tart Baking Company, is one of the newest bakeries in town at 192 Main Street in Northampton, is an up and comer. Good breads, very good pastries, and various savory meat and vegetarian pies. A true single-serving pie, not a calzone-style roll, these are kept warm, ready for a quick lunch or afternoon snack. I’ve had a buttery hamantashen and some good rolls there as well.

Roll into the hilltowns for even more baked goodness at Bread Euphoria at 206 Main Street in Haydenville (Route 9). I tend to get my Bread Euphoria bread at the Amherst Farmers’ Market so I’ve never been to their bakery in person. They have a full lunchtime menu, pizza, pastry and local beer. Someday I’ll get there, but until then, I’ll continue to pick up a loaf and a morning pastry at the Farmers’ Market.

Don Lesser has lived, eaten, and worked in Hampshire Country for 30 very odd years. He blogs about the local scene at russelnod.com.